Game Reviews (and other rated comments on Game pages)

Well, I wanted to relive this game! let's see if I can manage to do it.

Has anyone tested it and can give the results? I'd also like to repeat
some early analysis I made but I made a typo on it, rendering it invalid.

*Case 1. Alabaster Human d3; Obsidian Ghast e4.
d3 is compelled to move. Out of his usually available five moves, only two
of them actually flee the Ghast. They are Hc3 or Hc4. This human is still
compelled to flee to the b file on the next move.

*Case 2. Alabaster Human d3, Ghast b3, Go Away e2; Obsidian Ghast e4.
now the human moves to the c files are illegal, since he would be
approaching his own Ghast. But there's a saving move: Ae2 [reminder: on my
notation, a Go Away scream is recorded as moving to his own square]. The
scream pushes the Human to c4. The Human is still compelled, but now Hb5
(fleeing both Ghasts) is legal.

*Case 3. Alabaster Go Away a2, Human a3; Obsidian Ghast d4; Ichor on a3
and a4.
Now it gets tricky. Is screaming legal? [My thought: It was compelled to
move off of an ichorous square, and he did so. He is now compelled to move
off of a *different* Ichorous square.] Well, Is it valid?

*Case 4. Alabaster Go Away a2, Human a3; Obsidian Ghast d4; Mummy a3.
Well, This is even trickier. Now the Human can go to a4 on his own, but is
screaming valid? [Rationale: I think it should be to be consistent with
case 3, ie this is another multiple occupancy square.]

And now for something completely different. My thoughts on the pieces.

Basilisk: This is powerful, but using his ability also reduces his
mobility.  So it needs to be careful to not to petrify many pieces at once
or it can get in trouble. Grade: B

Ghast: The compelling thing is great, This piece can be deadly if placed
correctly. There is a nice balancing act, though. This piece is
thrice-colorbound. But it seems hard to stop nonetheless. Grade: B+

Go Away: This is a killer. Albeit colorbound, this piece can create lots
of trouble. If you push your opponent's Go Away orthogonally, he has now
both Go Aways on the same color. Severe Balancing Act: It's the only piece
that stops working when petrified. A petrified Go Away could as well be a
petrified Human. Still... Grade: A

Leaf Pile: Simple and Deadly. But it's slow. Still, be careful of where
your opponent places his Leaf Piles. Grade: A-

Wounded Fiend: Being a rider is such a disadvantage in this game. No, he
can't run through a Ghast range to the other side, he can't cross a
basilisk gaze... But he can block squares for a limited time... (If we put
the poor Alabaster Human of the cases before on d3, and the Obsidian Ghast
at e4, but now we add an Obsidian Wounded Fiend at b5, after 1. Hc3(4)
1... Wb2++ wins by stalemating the Human, trapped in between ichor and a
Ghast.) Grade: C+

Human: No wonder there are so many, otherwise you blink and you miss them:
This poor guys have no power and suffer all sort of troubles. You can make
Zombies out of them, but that's so hard... Grade: D

Zombie: Now this guy has power! If he can keep away from Ichor, they are
quite a force to reckon with. Grade: A+

Statues: Several kind of statues, and (almost) all of them still useful in
a way or another. Still they are immobile... Grade: no way I can give a
single grade, they're so different.

Mummy: OK, an immobile piece with no power whatsoever, and if you want to
use them to block it will need lots of strategy. This is a no-brainer.
Grade: F

Disclaimer: I haven't played Nemoroth, so all this is out of thinking, not
actual experience.

Finally, I'd like to ask who of you asked for the wrong furniture...

-- 

Moussambani, who never has been in Mine's End and never completed Sokoban.
The Quest? Maybe some year in the 2030s...

Thank you for your comments.

I have very little knowledge of the game at present and have no ideas of
my own on which rules to use.  I do like historical authenticity so I find
your suggestion of using rules from 1563 highly attractive.

While there may be other historical sources, the study of which may well
be of great interest as time goes by, I feel that it would be a good idea
to have the 1563 game manual which you suggest as the rules for a first
game (and maybe for others later) so as to get a game started.  As it is a
fun game if a situation arises which those rules do not cover then
research on other historical sets of rules could follow to try to resolve
the situation, that being all part of the learning fun.

So, to set the process going, could you please say which pieces are needed
for black and which pieces are needed for white and whether play is on a
plain board or on a chequered board, so that I can start the process of
making some gif files for diagrams.

i dont write english well , but i just want tell you i am aorprending(?)for
this very good game and your presentation! congratulations!

cueation: this game really exist in Japan or is an invention your?
 
bye, good luck.

my mail: Abigeo69@hotmail.com

Thank you for the information.

I'll have a first try to find out if I can get the images to come out
straightforwardly.

I shall try to make them the same size as the chess diagram symbols used
in this site with the same colours for a 'black' square and for a 'white'
square that are used in those diagrams.

I have it in mind to make the pieces literally solid black and white then
to place the numbers upon them in whatever colours seem to work, such as
the board square colours, though that might not be possible as the 'black'
square colour may not show up well against the white pieces: and in any
case it might make the pieces look as if they have holes cut through them.
 I will try to avoid making the figures either black or white as I feel
that that might lead to confusion over which pieces are black and which
pieces are white.

I will use Microsoft Paint to draw the pieces and try to use the 'full
stop lock and key' method described in one of my articles on
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~ngo to align the numbers.  I am thinking
of preparing each number on two lines using Microsoft WordPad set for
centred text, the first of the two lines containing the number and the
second of the two lines containing just a full stop.  That will mean that
1 digit, 2 digit and 3 digit numbers can all be centred consistently.  I
have the Old English Text font so I shall have a look at using that for
the numbers first of all, but will abandon that idea if it looks wrong.

However, when producing gif files I will save the bmp from Microsoft Paint
and produce the gif files using Paint Shop Pro using an Optimized Octree
colour transformation to produce the palette for the gif file as, for gifs
using less than 256 colours, which these will be, the Octimized Octree
method keeps the original colours exactly.

My immediate design concern is how to get the big numbers onto the
triangular pieces and also keep the numbers the same size on all pieces
and keep it all legible on the screen!  An interesting challenge!

Thank you for your offer to help produce the pieces.

where i can play inigoshi in line?


imeon@sinectis.com

Great refresher thanks

Oops! Indeed, I was in the midst of translating, and then stopped. I
shouldn't have posted this prematurely. I'll try to finish the translation
and then post it again...

  Hans

Very fun game sir.

Since white has slight opening advantage, it would be more equitable
if the game start with black refusing one move from white and then 
white move and refuse black then game continues as described ...

Naast de wisseling van taal die nog steeds niet is verbeterd, is er bij het
eerste bord ook wit en zwart verkeerd geplaatst. Oeps foutje, nee een
blunder in deze sorrymaatschappij.

Fischerandom association:
http://www.Fischerandom.narod.ru
Welcome!

My first question so far involves Ash trees.

Given:
- All the squares comprising a tree lead through a series of adjacent
squares back to the root.
- Ash trees grow by Knight moves.

Then I assume:
- Ash squares that are a Knight's move apart are considered adjacent.

If:
- An Ash tree grows from b1 to c3 to d5, stops, and then grows to b4.

And:
- The Ash square d5 is killed.

Then:
- Ash square b4 dies also, even though it is diagonally adjacent to c3. 
Is this correct?


My second question involves underbrush.

When a deciduous tree is killed or injured, the underbrush squares left
behind are neutral.  Is it true that neutral underbrush has no way to
grow?


My third question involves the Huckleberry.

Once per game, the Huckleberry can expand by leaping onto any friendly
grassland square.  Is this Huckleberry distinct from the original
Huckleberry, resulting in two equal royal pieces?

Betza produces another winner!